HELP REDUCE THE DRIVE LUG'S WEAR-OUT RATE
One reason that lugs brake off is from extreme wearing of the rear idler wheels. Models such as
CAT 247/257 and ASV 50/60 when new, the clearance between the lug and frame is quite close.
As the rubber on the rear idler looses it's diameter due to wear, the lug will strike the frame. The
operator will not feel or hear this as the wear rate slowly continues. Our solid, aluminum alloy
wheels have helped solved this problem.
EXTREME TRACK WEAR
Extreme wearing on the inside and outside of the track is caused at the contact area where the
idler and bogie wheels contact the track's inner surface as all the machine's weight is applied at
this area. This wear is common with rubber track type equipment.
One possible solution when possible, is to reduce spinning the track on all surfaces. All the
machine's weight are on the idlers and bogies, this contact area has the most load force.
Remember the track is flexible.
Another solution as the plastic wheels wear, they loose the flat, contact area. They will wear and
take upon the look of a bicycle tire, which increases the load force per square inch. Replacing the
rubber/plastic wheels with our solid aluminum alloy wheels will greatly reduce this wear because
of maintaining this flat contact surface area.
DRIVE ROLLER CHECK
Grab a drive roller by the hand that is not in contact with the track. Cock the roller cross ways, if
you see a gap of 3/16th or greater, replacement should be considered.
Why replace? Drive lug failure or drive roller retaining bolt failure could occur. As the drive rollers
wear, the space or slot between them create a shock load to the retaining bolt. At high speed
travel, the roller slaps the lugs instead of a smooth impact. If you are breaking drive roller retaining
bolts, this is a likely cause. In extreme cases of wear, the rollers will become out of time with the
lugs also breaking retaining bolts for the drive rollers and drive lugs.
DRIVE CAGE ROLLER REPLACEMENT TIPS
Change the drive roller and/or bolts in about 30 minutes per side or less with two people.
Raise one track off the surface 6" or more, open the rear engine door and raise the cab.
Turn the drive roller retaining bolt from 9 to 11 o'clock. Remove the nut and tap the bolt towards
the body of the machine. Using a marker, draw a circle around the head of the bolt you are
preparing to drill the 1" hole.
Inspect the inner side of the body for wiring or hydraulic lines, if all looks clear, drill a 1/4 hole.
Shine a light on the hole from the outside and take another look inside, if there are no clearance
problems, drill a 1" hole. The hard part is now done. Loosen all drive roller bolts and have a
helper start the engine and rotate the tracks slowly. Line up the head of the bolt with the hole and
slide the bolt back into this hole. Install new rollers and slide the bolt back through. Install nut
hand tight. When all is replaced then torque all bolts to the machine's specification.
DRIVE ROLLER OUTER AND INNER FLANGE INSPECTION
Inspect the wear at the inner and outer rings, specifically were the drive roller through bolts are.
At the outside edges, if worn, more than 50% of the wheel thickness, the bolts may rip out. One
solution without having to remove the track is to take a welder and build up this area about 3/16th
thick or back to it's original thickness and about 1" on each side of the bolt.
TIP FOR THE ASV / TEREX RC/PT 30
Look at the left low side of the machine just below the drive sprocket. You will see a small tube,
this tube is the housing for the brake set rod. It is hydraulically released for brake off. It is spring
applied when there is no hydraulic pressure present.
Keep an eye on this, if the hydraulic seal leaks, the hydraulic pressure is not enough to keep the
rod retracted. The rod will be pushed out to set the brake and/or will not retract. If this happens,
possible catastrophic destruction of the drive roller system will happen when the machine is in
motion. Watch for signs of oil leakage in this area. |
